In-Camera Digital Double Exposure Tutorial – Howtoshtab – how to, lifehacks, tips and tricks

{\rtf1\ansi\ansicpg1252\cocoartf1187\cocoasubrtf340 {\fonttbl\f0\fmodern\fcharset0 Courier;} {\colortbl;\red255\green255\blue255;\red26\green26\blue26;\red242\green242\blue242;} \margl1440\margr1440\vieww10800\viewh8400\viewkind0 \deftab720 \pard\pardeftab720\sl380 \f0\fs26 \cf2 \cb3 >> Sara: Hi guys, my name is Sara from Sara K Byrne Photography and today I’m going to be talking to you a bit about how to do in-camera double exposures. \ \ I won a fearless award for a photo I had last year and ever since then I’ve been getting questions on how to do this.\ \ so this is a technique that originated with film photography where you expose the same frame of film twice, but nowadays there are a lot of cameras that allow you to do the same technique digitally.

\ \ I’m going to show you how to do them on the 5d mark 3.\ \ ok so now we’re going to go through the menu on the back of the camera. there is a little paint brush looking button right here, its called the creative photo button. if you hit that a little menu is going to come up and the center option is for multiple exposure, so just click on that\ \ to turn it on you go to on function/control.\ \ multiple exposure mode we are going to set to additive, we’re going to use this because its the most similar to how film works.\ \ theres three other options and we’ll do a brief description in the blog post.\ \ we’re going to just do two exposures, you can do more if you’d like.\ \ we’re going to be saving all images and we’re going to be in continuous shooting mode.\ \ right here, this is a cool thing..

it allows you to select an image for the base image so you don’t have to shoot them right in a row. you can in you want, but say you’ve taken some photos earlier in the day and you wanted to use those.. like I’d taken this photo last night and I’m going to be using that one for one of my base images. \ \ lets go use it, take some photos.\ \ Silhouettes are a really fun place to start because you can blow out the sky behind the person and the second image you take is only going to fill the dark areas of the first.\ \ so we have some base images that I shot earlier, so we only need to find textures to fill them with.\ \ the mark 3 is awesome because if you use live view which I highly suggest, it will show you the overlay of both images and you won’t have to remember what your previous composition was.

\ \ now in the menu you’ll remember I chose save all images, this saves the two photos individually and the composite result in raw form, which is why I’m able to show you the before and afters.\ \ sometimes I want to have more context and facial texture in the subject. If you have really directional sunlight you can have the subject face the sun and slightly underexpose skin tones. \ \ you’re going to end up shooting upward a lot of the time, and you should use the sky to your advantage. its great for isolating the subject and background textures, for example if you shoot the top of a tree line instead of shooting into the trees, the sky will blow out the rest of the image behind her head. I purposefully kept her face in the darker part of the image to retain the full facial line. \ \ alright, thanks so much for watching guys, i hope it was all helpful for you.

if you have any questions, I’ll do my best to answer and I’m so excited to see what you come up with!}.

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