iPhone 7 Plus – Replacing the front camera / selfie camera – Howtoshtab – how to, lifehacks, tips and tricks

Hi, I’m Christopher from iDoc, and today I’m going to show you how to replace your iPhone’s front camera on your own. Plan on taking about half an hour for the repair. It’s a little tricky because the display’s really glued on. You’ll need the following tools: a pentalobe screwdriver, a Phillips screwdriver, a tri-point screwdriver, a suction cup, a pick, a pair of tweezers, a steel laboratory spatula and a spudger. You also need a heat gun because the display’s really glued on. I also recommend using our magnetic pad so you can keep your screws organized during the repair. You can find these tools in our online shop. If you get stuck anywhere during the repair, use the photo guide. If you have any questions, post them in the comments section.

Have fun repairing your device. Before I start the repair, I’m going to turn off the device so I don’t cause any short circuits. Before I can open the device, I have to remove the two pentalobe screws to the left and right of the charging port. Now I want to open the iPhone 7 Plus’ display. Of course, I have to heat the glue with the heat gun so it’s easier to detach. Before I open the display, it’s very important to remember that there are cables on the side. That means I can’t push the pick under the display too hard. The display’s hooked on up here as usual. Even though it opens to the right, I have detach all the sides of the display first, then pull it down a little and tilt it up. So now I stick the suction cup to the lower end of the display, pull on it and try to get the pick between the display and the enclosure at the same time.

This part’s a little harder with the iPhone 7 Plus because they used a stronger glue than in earlier iPhone models, but it’s not impossible. You just have to move your pick along the entire display, but don’t open it like the previous iPhones. Instead, continue detaching it up here. Because it’s hooked on in this corner up here, push down the display a little. Now the whole display is detached. Once I’ve taken off the suction cup, I can open the display and then set it down so it’s half on the edge and the cables won’t tear when I fold it over. But it opens up nicely. Now I want to disconnect the display. I have to start with these four tri-point screws holding the plate over the contacts. Once the screws are undone, I can just take off the plate. Now I disconnect the following contacts: I start with the battery to prevent short circuits or damage from short circuits during the repair.

Then I disconnect the connection for the touchscreen and display. Finally, I disconnect the contact for the Home button. Then I have to uncover the contact for the earpiece and front camera so I can take the display off all the way. Once again, there are three tri-point screws and a plate securing these contacts. Once the screws are undone, I can simply take off the plate. Now the contact is exposed, and I carefully disconnect it from the PCB using the spudger. Next, I take off the display all the way. There are a plate and five screws holding the earpiece in place. Once I’ve removed the screws, I can take off the plate, move the front camera a little to one side and then remove the earpiece. Now I want to remove the front camera with all the sensors on it. The whole thing is glued to the display.

I start here with the proximity sensor. It’s in a socket, so carefully insert the tweezers under it to make sure you don’t tear the sensor or the socket. Like I said, the whole thing’s glued on, so it’s a little tricky. Then I work my way along from the other side. First I try to detach the entire flexible flat cable from the display. There’s also a microphone you can remove at the same time. Now that I’ve gotten here, I disconnect the four gold contacts for the earpiece from the display frame. I have to be very careful and do it one step at a time because I don’t want to tear the flexible flat cable. Now I’ve disconnected everything and I can remove it. In this step, I put the flexible flat front camera cable back in.

Of course, that means I have to stick all the surfaces to the frame again. I start with the contacts for the earpiece. There are two tabs that make positioning easier. Then I press the microphone onto the surface here, and then things get a little tricky. First I put the proximity sensor back in after bending the cable twice. Once it’s in place, you can insert the light sensor or brightness sensor in the socket, and then the earpiece. It has four gold spring contacts that you have to guide onto the four gold contacts here. Of course, you also have to guide the speaker’s opening through the opening in the display frame. Because it’s spring-loaded, the earpiece doesn’t lie flat so you have to hold it all in place when you put the camera in the socket.

Keep holding it so you can put on the plate that holds everything together. Then keep holding onto that until you fasten it with a screw. Once the first screw is tightened, I can take my finger off and fasten the other screws. Now I want to put the display back on. I start with the connection for the front camera and the earpiece. First I put the display on upright, take the connection cable between my fingers and press the contact into the socket on the logic board. Then I put the display back in the original position on the side and set it on the right edge of the enclosure. Then I secure all the contacts with the protective plates, starting with the left connection. In this step, I connect the Home button and the display cable. Make sure you can hear all the connectors click into place. Otherwise, take them off and connect them again. Once all the connections are connected right, I can connect the battery again. Then I continue with the second cover plate.

In this step, I can close the display again. First of all, I hook the two tabs on the upper end of the display back into the enclosure. So now I have to hook on the display by moving to the left a little. Then I can press it on all over so all the tabs click into the enclosure and the device is closed properly. To finish the repair, I just have to fasten the two pentalobe screws to the left and right of the charging port. Now you’ve repaired your iPhone, and I hope you had fun. But if you do get stuck somewhere, contact me at idoc.eu or use the comment function. I’d be happy to help you. Our how-to videos show tips and tricks for your iPhone, as well as solutions to many problems. Take a look at the videos or visit us on Facebook. Subscribe to our channel to make sure you don’t miss any new videos.

See you next time..

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