Right before you jump into this video, if you want to get my free 11 days to better photography mini video course, head on over to froknowsphoto.com/11 days to get started right now. Jared Polin, froknowsphoto.com and this is your user’s guide for the Nikon D5600. Now, I hope that you use this instead of reading the manual, but I do suggest that you do read the manual because there are some good nuggets of information in there. Now speaking of nuggets, some of this stuff may seem super simple to you, but as we progress it may get a little more advanced, but it’s going to help you set up the camera and use it, so you can start getting great pictures and video of whatever it is you want to shoot.
So, the first thing I want to show you how to do is put the lens on. Now, to start I’m going to take the lens off, because it’s off when you get it. You see this white dot right there. You line that white dot up with this white dot right here. Go ahead and do this. Boom! It goes in. Turn it towards you. If you’re holding it like me, you’ll hear a click and you’re all set. How do you take it off? You’ve got this release button right here. You press it. You turn the lens the other way and you take it off. Now, be careful when you take the lens off you don’t ever want to touch anything inside this camera, you don’t want to touch the mirror or the sensor underneath, so just know to get the lens back on, line it up, turn it towards you, and it locks right in. So, before we turn it on, I want to show you where the battery goes. Right here on the bottom there’s a little door. The battery pops out just like this. There’s only one way that it can go in. Move this yellow tab out of the way. Press it in. Boom! Close it recommendation. Try to have two batteries always fully charged, especially if you go away, if one goes bad or you run out of power you don’t want to not be able to shoot.
Now, when you turn the camera to the side, you have one SD card slot. Right here we have a Lexar 128GB SD card. You can go ahead. You pop it in here. It goes in one way. Press it. Shut the door. Close it. You’re ready to go. Now, to turn the camera on and off, move the switch right there. It goes on. Turn it off. It goes that way also. So, how do you take a picture in focus? Well, you have a shutter button right here. You can go ahead and press that all the way down to take a picture or hold it halfway down to get your focus for whatever you’re trying to focus on. Now, moving around these buttons you have a plus, minus, for exposure compensation, but also for changing your aperture. I will show you that when we turn the camera on. This red one is for shooting video, to get into the live view mode to shoot either photos or video you would pull back on this spring loaded button right here. You’ve got this dial right here, which helps you change your shutter speed. Now this is your mode dial.
Now you’re going to notice something a little different than some other cameras you may have seen in the past, because you have your auto right here. Then you have the no flash one, which means if you don’t want the flash popping up in any situation you’re in, go ahead and do that, it will be completely in auto still, but the flash won’t pop up. You’ve got your effects mode. You have manual, aperture priority, shutter priority, program mode, and now you have a scene mode. Now if you’ve seen other cameras mode dials, you’ll see a running man person on there. You’ll see a portrait. You’ll see a kid. You’ll see a landscape. They’ve got rid of that on the wheel. So, how do you access it? Well, I am going to turn the camera on. I’m going to show you real quick because it’s in the scene mode and I go ahead and I look at the back of the camera on the screen, you see this lady with a hat on. I go ahead and hit that in the top left and I can either use this dial to move through or I could touch the one I want or use the touch screen to go ahead and change it.
So, I’ll show you more of that as we get into the camera, but I just wanted to show you how you get your scene modes. Now, moving to the top of the camera, you’ve got your left microphone, your right microphone, as well as your hot shoe. This is where you would put a flash or an external microphone if you were going to connect the microphone right to here. This is your flash. Now, when you press this and it’s too dark to take a picture, you press the button halfway down and it’s supposed to pop up. I just realized why it’s not popping up, but let me show you that right now. If you have the 18-55 kit lens, it has a lock on it with this button right here for when you put it back into your bag. To unlock it, press the button. Turn the lens that way. You hear a click. It’s now unlocked, so that when I go ahead and press the button, the flash is popping up just like that.
Now, I want to show you how it won’t pop up if I put it into the ‘don’t flash pop up’ part. Boom! Not popping up anymore. All right. I am going to turn the camera off for the time being and let me show you the side of the camera right here. Right here we’ve got another manual way for you to pop up the flash. We have a function button, which you can set yourself. We have the release button like I showed you how to take the lens on and off. We also have another dedicated button. This means how many frames a second you can shoot. It will allow you to make that change in the menu system by pressing that, as well as accessing the timer function if you want to do timed photos, say, two seconds or five seconds, it can do that. Right here you’ve got your name plate to let everybody know that it’s the D5600. Right here on the side you can see if you move this piece of rubber, open up the door, you have a remote slot, you have a microphone slot and you have a USB plug that you can plug in right here.
Moving around to the top right here, this is where you can put your strap that comes in the box. This right here is a speaker to play back the audio for when you’ve recorded audio and you want to hear it. It’s not the greatest thing in the world because look how small it is. Now let me show you what you look through in order to take the picture. This is your view finder right here. Right next to the viewfinder, you will find a diopter. If you wear glasses or you don’t want to wear glasses and dial that in, you can go ahead and use the diopter to do that. You’ve got the info button right here, as well as another button that helps you to do focusing or auto exposure lock. You’ve got your play button for playing back your images. You have another info button, but this one is I. It does something different. I’ll show you that later as well. You’re up, up, down, down, left right, left right, B A B A button right here for anybody who knows what that is.
Leave a comment down below. But that’s how you go ahead and move around the menu system with an OK button. You’ve got your zoom buttons. That shows you exactly what that is and then you have a trash can. Now this is your screen right here, your LCD screen, because you have a Nikon D5600 it will come to you closed. Boom! You can close it when you put it in your bag, so it protects the screen in case anything bumps into it. You have a protector built in by this. Now, to open it you just pull it out. You can rotate it back like this and then, boom, close it and it can be exposed right here and this is the LCD screen that you would use. Now also people always ask, well, how – what if I don’t want the LCD screen on when I’m shooting pictures using the viewfinder? Simple. We have a proximity sensor built into this camera and when I say ‘we’ I mean Nikon, not actually me, because I didn’t build it, but you’ve got the proximity sensor there, so that if your eye comes up to this, it will turn off the screen so that it makes it easier to shoot.
Now moving to the bottom of the camera, we have right here is your tripod socket. If you want to go ahead and put it on a tripod that’s where you would do it. Or if you want to put it onto a monopod, you would put it there as well. So, that’s pretty much everything on the outside of the camera. I’m going to take a quick second to go ahead and get ready to show you how the menu system works. Before we jump into the next section, I have a question for you. How do you organize and protect your camera gear? Well, if you don’t have an answer for that, I have an answer for you. It’s called mygearvault. It is the best way to input, organize, and protect your camera gear. It’s a free app that you can check out right now at mygearvault.
com. Download it in the Apple App Store and it’s coming soon for Android. So, go ahead and check that out. Now let’s get back to the user guide. So now I want to show you how to set up your camera by using the menu system. I’m going to walk you through step by step and show you how I personally would set it up myself. But before I do that, I want to let you know we’re using what’s called an Atomos to record the back of the camera, so that you can see all of the menu systems as if you were going through the camera with me right now. So, the first thing that I want to do is remind you that if you’re in the auto mode, you may not have access to all of the menu systems to make a change. Let me show you what I mean by that right now. I’m in auto mode. Do you see these grayed out areas on the back of the camera? Those are functions that you cannot control because you’re in auto mode.
So, if I go ahead and get out of there and I move from Scene Mode back into say Program Mode, it’s no longer in Auto Mode, but I want to let you in on a little secret that Program Mode is basically full auto. It’s just going to give you full control of your camera. So, now I’m going to hit the menu button again. It’s going to take us into the menu settings and the first thing we see here is playback menu. Delete, that’s one way you could delete the pictures, but I’m not a fan of deleting any pictures on the camera. Playback folder, play all is perfectly fine. Playback display options, let’s see what that is. Oh, do you guys see the question mark in the bottom of the screen? Well, you also have a question mark on the back of your camera. If you see the question mark on the bottom of the screen and you hit the question mark on the back of the camera, it goes ahead and brings up the actual user’s guide inside of the camera, so you can read what it means.
No image, none, highlight, RGB histogram, it explains everything for you. So, what do I turn on? I go ahead and I use the arrow to hit right to turn on none. Let’s turn on highlights. Highlights are the blinky things that you’ll see in the back. Just play around with this one. Shooting data and overview is what I like to do. Also you go ahead and hit the OK button right here and that goes ahead and it should have saved everything. Let’s go back and it did. So, I hit the OK button again. Image review, I like to turn image review off. Personally that means when you take a picture, the picture doesn’t pop up on the back of the screen, I recommend doing this because you don’t want to get in the habit of taking a picture, looking at the screen, taking a picture, looking at the screen, because you end up missing the pictures that you should have been shooting because you’re looking at the screen.
So, don’t do that. Keep on moving. Auto-rotate image, what does this say right here? Record camera orientation when taking photographs. Images taken when off is selected will not be rotated for display during playback. Now, this is something that I personally leave off, because I want to be able to turn the camera myself like this to see the full image covering the entire screen, but vertically if I shoot vertical images, now when we move rotate tall, let’s see what this says. If on is selected, images taken with on selected for auto image rotation in the PLAYBACK MENU will be rotated for display during playback. Images are not rotated for display in the monitor immediately after shooting. So, I’m going to leave this on. Moving through slide show, I don’t even touch rating.
I don’t touch and select to send to smart devices, I don’t touch that either. Moving on to the SHOOTING MENU, you could reset everything. You could change storage folder. This is stuff that I’d leave basically with whatever the camera had set. File naming DSC is a file naming structure that the camera has it set to. You could change it to your initials. It could be J something 2. It could be J22, whatever you want it to be, you can change those three digits right there. Image quality, this is important. So, on image quality it comes to you set in Jpeg normal. I’m a big fan of shooting RAW as my shirts say I shoot RAW by the way if you want to get I shoot RAW shirt, go to store.froknowsphoto.com. You can pick one up right now. My recommendation is if you are just starting out, I would shoot RAW plus Jpeg, fine. Now, it’s going to use more space on your memory cards because you’re shooting a RAW file and a full res JPEG, but you will thank me in the future when you understand the importance of shooting RAW.
What I want to quickly say is that the RAW file gives you all of the data, all of the RAW data that the camera captured. A JPEG goes ahead and throws away a lot of that data that you don’t need that it thinks you don’t need, but maybe in the future you do, but a word of warning is that RAW files are larger. They take up more space and you’ll have to tweak and edit each and every one of them, but you may not be ready for that now, but you want to have that. You want to take those photos, so that when you are ready to go ahead and edit them in the future, you still have them. So, I put it on RAW plus JPEG, fine. Image size, I put that on large. There’s no reason to shoot medium or small. I don’t care about shooting small. I don’t care how much space it takes up. The reason I say this is you can always go down in quality, you can never go back up if you don’t have it, so I leave that on large for your JPEG. NEF RAW recording, I put that on 14-bit instead of 12.
Again, the best quality is what I want. I don’t want a dumbed down file. Moving through, ISO sensitivity settings. We can show you this on the back of the camera. There’s a Info button that allows you to make changes there. It’s much easier. We’ll show you that later. White Balance, I personally leave on auto. Set your picture controls. You can see the different ones from standard to neutral to vivid to monochrome to portrait to landscape to flat. I generally leave it on standard. Now keep in mind that your RAW files will not retain the picture style controls, but your JPEGs will. Also if you’re shooting video and, say, you shoot it in monochrome, yep, your video is going to have no color. It’s going to be monochrome only. So when you’re shooting video, make sure you set your picture style before you do that. So, moving back through the menu here, Manage Picture Control style, save and load, that means you could save them for later to come back to color space sRGB. Activity D-Lighting, I personally turn this off.
I don’t want that. Let’s see. High dynamic range is currently off for whatever reason. Release mode, what does that mean? Let’s go inside and see. Ah, that’s what it means. Do you want to shoot one frame every time you press the button or do you want to shoot continuous frames and continuous low, meaning when you hold your finger down on the shutter button, it’s going to shoot photos in rapid succession or in continuous high? Now, I like to shoot in continuous high especially if I’m shooting action, I want to get as many frames a second as possible for that short burst that I’m going to shoot. You’ve got quiet shutter release mode. If I had to guess, it’s probably not that much quieter than regular mode. And then you have self-timer mode, which you could set as well. I’m going to show you another button that you could do that with. Actually I’ll show you right now.
I go ahead and hit this button and it brings up the back of the camera. Now you’d be able to touch the back of the camera to make these changes because I’m plugged into this Atomos right here. I can’t touch it, so I’ll just use the arrows. You see if you hit this button, you can get a quick menu to single frame to continuous low, continuous high, to quiet mode, as well as the – what do they call this? They call this the self-timer. So getting back into the menu section, let’s get back into the menu section right here. You’ve got long exposure noise reduction. I personally leave it off. High ISO noise reduction, I also turn that off. For those of you who shoot JPEGs, if you shoot at higher ISOs and you leave that on, you would see more of a mushy muddled image. If you leave it off, you may see a little more grain, but it’s at least going to be a sharper image, so that’s my recommendation for you right there.
Vignette control, I leave it exactly where it’s at. Auto distortion control off. Optical VR, so being that this lens right here does not have a button anymore for turning on VR and turning it off, if you want to turn it off, you have to come into the camera and go ahead and hit off. You might as well just leave it on. Now if you’re on a tripod that’s where you would want to turn it off. For the other times, just go ahead and leave it on. Internal timer shooting, wow, this camera has that. That’s a pretty good thing. You could play around with this for time lapse, for setting the camera to take pictures every second, every 10 minutes, every 20 minutes. Play around with that. That’s a fun little setting in there. And then your movie settings, you’ve got your frame size rate. Let’s go in there, 1920/1080, which is full HD at 60 frames a second. Now remember if you shoot at 60 frames a second, you’re chewing up more data as opposed to if you shot at, say, 24 frames a second. Now 24 frames a second is more cinematic what you’re used to seeing when you are watching movies and 60 frames a second is more what you would see with video games.
It’s kind of awkward when you’re shooting your video, so I recommend doing 24 frames a second if you’re going to go ahead and do that. You’ve got these other lower end ones. I really wouldn’t go less than 1080. I wouldn’t get into 720 at this point and so those are the options that you have. I’m going to go ahead and set it to 24 frames a second right there. Movie quality, I don’t want it on normal. I want it on high. Remember what I said, you can always go down in quality, you can’t get higher in quality once you’re lower. Microphone, you could leave that on auto for the most part except if you’re plugging in an external microphone, I recommend that you study up on how to set your audio levels for that.
I leave wind noise reduction off and manual movie settings, I’m actually going to put that on. Let’s read what that says. Manual movie settings: Choosing ‘On’ allows the shutter speed and ISO sensitivity for movies to be selected manually. Yep, this means if you’re shooting manual video, you can change your shutter speed when you’re recording that’s something I recommend you do, so let’s get out of there. I go ahead and turn that off. So, moving back over to here, we are now into your CUSTOM SETTING MENU. I know this takes a little bit of time, but watch this video once and also refer back to it if you ever need to find a section where you want to know what something means. You always have me to come back to at froknowsphoto, so go ahead, hit the Subscribe button while you’re at it. Let’s get into auto focus. Auto focus, so you’ve got AF-C priority selection. What does this mean? It means if you’re not in focus, it won’t take a picture. You could set it to release, which would mean. Let’s see what it means. Let’s go ahead and hit the button. Release means the shutter can be released even when the camera is not in focus, say, sometimes the camera is wrong and you’re actually in focus, but it doesn’t think you are, look, this is a crapshoot.
You pick whichever one you want. For now we’ll put it on focus. Number of focus points you have to choose between 39 and 11. I leave it on 39, because I like to select a bunch of different ones of those. We’ve got the built in AF-assist illuminator thingymabobber. This lights up when you press the shutter button halfway down to help light up your subject. It’s actually kind of annoying. I don’t recommend doing it because then people know you’re taking their picture, especially if you’re trying to get candid moments, it can become annoying. So I personally turn this one off. Rangefinder off. Manual focus ring in AF mode on. Let’s see EV steps one-third, I like third stops. ISO display, what is this talking about? On and off. Let’s read about it right here. Choose whether ISO sensitivity is shown in the viewfinder frame-count display. That’s up to you. Not a big deal. I leave that off.
Shutter release button, yep, skip past that. Auto off timers, you can go ahead. I have it set, so it doesn’t go off, but you can set it to short, normal, long, I have it custom right now, but you go ahead and set that up for yourself. Self-timers, you can say self-timer delay 10 seconds. You could also do 2 seconds, 5 seconds, 10 seconds, 20 seconds, it’s going to beep and when it gets to the end, it’s going to go beep, beep, beep, click and take the picture. Number of shots, now this is pretty cool. This means in self-timer if you go ahead and say set it to 10 seconds and hit this over here and you could set between one and nine frames. So, when you go ahead and hit self-timer and you set this eight to nine or let’s say eight because that’s what I just hit it, it would take eight pictures in a row and I don’t know if it’s going to take it every 10 seconds or if it just takes eight after every set, I don’t know I have to try that out. You guys test it out, but just know that this functions there and it’s pretty cool to have. Let’s see exposure delay mode, I don’t even know what the heck that is.
It’s funny. I don’t know what all the stuff means either, because most of the time you don’t need it. Delay shutter release until about one second after the mirror is raised. Exposure delay mode that’s interesting. That’s for if you’re shooting super slow shutter speeds. They don’t have this. It’s funny. They don’t have a lot of this in Pro cameras, but they have it down here. So, what this means is it would delay the picture being taken. So, if you don’t want any shaking, because you’re shooting at a super slow shutter speed, you would hit it, it would wait and then it would shoot the picture. File number sequence, turn this on. You don’t want this off. You want this on, so that when you take a picture and you take another picture and then you turn the camera off and you turn it back on, it doesn’t give it the same file name. It will go to 1999 before it resets to zero. Viewfinder grid display, I leave that off. Date time stamp that is absolutely off.
Remember in the ‘80’s when you would go to the One Hour Photo Mark and you get your pictures back with that burnt in thing in the bottom right-hand corner with the date and time and when you would enlarge it, you would enlarge the date and time, yeah, don’t put that on in your photos. Nobody likes that. Unless you’re one of those people who likes that, then turn it on. More power to you. Reverse, nope, don’t do that. Flash control, TTL is fine. Auto bracketing set, I leave that. Assign function budget right now is set to ISO. So the function button, which is right here on the side that means it’s set to ISO. So if I hit that, it would then go into ISO. Assign AE lock, leave that. Assign touch function, I leave it where it’s at. Reverse dials, I don’t do that either. So, that’s your CUSTOM SETTING MENU.
Moving down we’ve got your SET UP MENU. Man, there’s a lot of menus in here when you’re out of auto. Format, this is what you do every time you put a new card into the camera. You format it so that the card and the camera are talking the same language, so that you have less issues when you’re shooting photos. Now, remember before you reformat a card, make sure you’ve offloaded the data that’s on it because once you reformat it, it’s much harder to get it back and recover it. I’m not going to reformat it right now because I have some images on the card. Image comment, you would set this to leave. Remember how I said you don’t want to put that time stamp in the bottom corner. Well, with image comment, you can digitally put it into your, what’s called, metadata. It’s going to store it inside the file, so you can put an image comment and copyright information.
This is where you would set the time. I would take the time to do image comment and copyright information. You guys should do that, turn that on. Language, you can change it to a bunch of different languages. In this case, English, because that’s all I can read. Beep options, on, I like having my beep options on. This means when you’re in single focus mode, it will beep when you’re in focus. So here you’ve got your choice between high. That sounds like that. And low, low, high, low, high, low, high, whatever you want to pick, pick it. So, for now I’ll leave it on high pitch. Let’s keep on moving. Touch controls, what are touch controls? That just means I should be able to just touch the screen? Yes. I’m leaving that on. I want that enabled.
Monitor brightness, I generally leave it on zero, because we were filming it earlier. It’s still set to minus three, so I like to leave it set to zero. Let’s see. Info display format, yes, you could change this. I like the more traditional style, which is this more so than the nontraditional. Let’s take a look. That’s the nontraditional. I don’t like the way that looks. That’s awfully confusing to me. So when I go in here and I go to info display for P/S/A/M, I’m going to go to this one with the old [Indiscernible] [00:24:14] go a look. Let me show, yes, that’s much better. Oh, and you see everything blinking right now. The reason it’s blinking even though I have a lens attached to it, remember I said that if it’s locked, you can’t shoot pictures. Well, it’s locked. So, let’s unlock it right now to show you.
Yep, see that. All those numbers start to show up. So let’s get back into the menu system once again. Info display, I leave that on. Info display auto off on as well. Clean image sensor that’s where the camera would clean the image sensor. It doesn’t hurt to do that every once in a while. It’s going to clean the dust off. And I will remind you that if you see what looks like a black spot on your images that may be because you have dust on your sensor. Don’t go in there and try to clean the sensor yourself. Use this clean image sensor mode in the camera first and then if you notice that you’re looking through the viewfinder and it looks like you have specs in your images, those won’t turn out in your photos because the mirror is what’s dirty. I wouldn’t even worry about cleaning that either because you don’t want to mess anything up. You can lock the mirror up if you want to go ahead and clean something. Image dust off, I’ve never even touched that.
Flicker reduction is on auto. That’s cool for if you’re shooting inside a gym. It may know and it won’t shoot while the lights are flickering. Slot empty release lock, I highly recommend that you leave this on lock. If it’s on unlock and you start taking pictures without a memory card and then you go, well, why didn’t I get any pictures? But you don’t have a memory card. I made that mistake back when I was shooting film. I was at the school event and I took like 30 pictures and I looked at my camera and realized that I didn’t have any film in it, so you don’t want to have that issue right here. Moving on HDMI, yep, location data, remote control, if you connect it, airplane mode in case you’re on an airplane, you want to turn off the Wi-Fi. You could do that, but nobody is going to turn it off on an airplane.
Connect to smart devices. This is where you would go ahead and connect to snap bridge. I’m not going to show you how to do that now. You can – that’s really easy to go ahead and do. It can walk you through that by itself. Wi-Fi, all right, so that’s all of that. Conformity marketing, what is conformity? I don’t even know what the heck that means. Oh, it’s an FCC thing. That’s on the bottom of the camera and, yeah, I don’t even know what the heck that means. And then firmware, this tells you what firmware you are currently on. And if there’s ever a firmware update, you can update it and I’ll make a video to show you how to do that. Then you’ve got your RETOUCH MENU. If you want to edit your RAW files or any files inside the camera, you could do that. I don’t do anything inside the camera. I save that for later and then you’ve got your recent settings. Any of the settings that you recently went through and changed you would see them right here in the recent setting menu, so that is running you through how to set up the menu system.
I know it’s a little long, but this should help you out right out of the gate and remember just because I said it one way, it doesn’t mean that you should set it the exact same way. This is just a guide. Try it for yourself. See what works for you and then leave a comment down below with what settings you use that I don’t personally use and we’ll be right back with another section. So, now I want to walk you through everything you will see on your touch screen on the back of the camera. Now you can make a lot of changes from this touchscreen where back in the day everything had to be done in the menu system, but now that you can touch the screen, you pretty much have a dedicated button for everything. So, you see how it says lens retracted and I can’t make any changes.
Again I’m going to unlock this. I hate the fact that they have this on this lens, but you unlock it and you have to lock it when you put it away and it won’t let you shoot until you unlock it. So, you see how it says one to thousandth of a second, yep, that’s exactly how you say it. If you rotate this back dial right here that’s how you change your shutter speed. Now, how do you change your aperture? A lot of people ask this question on this camera because it doesn’t have a dial to make any changes on the front. So, you hit the plus, minus, right here and you turn that scene dial that you were using for the shutter and this time it overrides that and it will change your aperture. You can see that it’s changing right here on the back of your camera. So, on the screen right now, you can see the meter. That’s where the arrow is all the way to the left because it’s telling you that it’s under-exposed. That’s what you could line up right in the middle if you go ahead and line it up properly, which I probably [Indiscernible] [00:28:28] that’s telling me that’s a proper exposure right there.
Also like I said at the beginning of this video, if you want to become a better photographer in only 11 days go to froknowsphoto.com/11 days. I have a video specifically on how to set up the meter for free right there. So, what do we do if we want to change the ISO? See this info button on the side. We can go ahead and hit that right now. This basically is like a dedicated button for everything, now because I can’t access the touch screen right now, which you can, you can just touch everything. I’m going to go in here and show you can change the RAW to whatever you want it to change to. I leave it in RAW + fine as you can see. It also tells you how many – how much storage it will take. It would take 54 megabytes per picture that you take, but because I have 128 gigabyte card in there, it would give me 2300 pictures. So, moving down basically we went into the menu system. We already showed you that bracketing.
I leave that off. Auto white balance, changing the ISO, you’re going to change the ISO quite often at the back of your camera. So, here the lower the number – by the way in 11 days I have a video on this as well, but the lower the number the more light you need, so a bright day you’re going to go ahead and use that. You could also see that on the back of the camera it shows you a picture of a situation that you might want to shoot there. Now, if you’re shooting action sports, maybe start around 400 if you’re outside and then as it gets darker, you start to use a higher ISO. In this case, this one tops out at 25,600. So, at those higher ISOs, you may see what’s called noise and grain, so the best way to have less noise and less grain is to shoot at lower ISOs where possible, but do not be afraid to shoot at higher ones from time to time. So, moving on back here this you can get your picture style and this one is how you can set your focusing modes. So, right now it’s set to AF-A. I do not like auto-servo AF.
That means the camera is going to decide should it do single or continuous, it could get it wrong, so that’s why I’m either in AF-S. What that means is if you hold the shutter button halfway down, you’ll hear that beep when you’re in focus that means you can lock your composition and move the camera and the focus will stay locked. And if you want to refocus, you press the button again. You use that for subjects that aren’t moving. Now, if the subject is moving you use AF-C, which is continuous. That’s for your sports or shooting cars or somebody running or the kids in the backyard. That’s where you would use that and then manual focus and if you want to go ahead and override everything else and do that yourself. So, most of the time you’re going to be living in AF-S and AF-C. AF area mode, so let’s go through what those are. You’ve got single AF. You’ve got 9 point, 21 point, and 39 point, as well as 3D. 3D tracking is really good if you’re shooting a subject that’s moving superfast like a jet.
I’ve shot fighter jets before and if you want the focus to continually track it 3D wise, this is what you’re going to use and I don’t use it all the time especially for sports where people running at me because if somebody kicks a ball, it may focus on their foot or it may focus on the ball when it should have been focusing on their face. Nine points means you could select nine different points. This one means you could use the 21 points and this one would use all 39 points to get the autofocus data. This is for you to choose. Try them out. Most of the time I’m probably in 9 or 21. Moving on, we’ve got metering mode. I leave this in this one. This is called matrix metering. This one is called center-weighted. And if you’re ever shooting a subject at, say, back against a strong back light, you could get into spot metering, meaning it will only give you the meter reading for what’s inside that spot. So I generally leave it on matrix metering.
Flash, you can’t touch. You can’t touch that. I don’t have those [Indiscernible] [00:32:20] anymore. But anyway that is the back of the camera right there. So, next let’s go to the playback menu, so you can see the pictures that you’ve taken. Right here you’ve got that sideways triangle. I think you should know what a play button is by now, but if you don’t, this is it. I go ahead and hit play and I can cycle through the images by hitting left or I could hit right and check this out. If I hit up, it changes what you see, now because we set that in the playback menu, I can see the settings that I use the histogram. The histogram is that thing to the right of the screen. As I keep hitting up, I can see more data. That’s where I would see the image comment and all of that information if I had that set.
So you can see all of that stuff. Don’t forget cycle through and if I had video in here, which I think I do, I could play that back as well, but I’m not going to do that right here. So let’s get out of that and hit play once again. Oh, let me hit play again because I want to show you something. Say I want to delete this. I could hit the trash can and I could hit the trash can again to delete it, but my recommendation is don’t ever delete anything inside the camera because you may delete something that you didn’t want to delete. The cards are cheap. Fill them up. Don’t worry about deleting stuff on the camera itself. So, now I want to show you how to get into live view to take photos, as well as shoot video. What you need to do is pull back on the live view toggle. It flips the mirror up, which then allows you to see everything on the LCD, the back of the cameras.
So, right here you can see everything that I’m seeing. Now this is if you want to take stills, if you want to take video, you can go ahead and hit the record button right here and I’ll show you that in just a second. On the bottom of the screen, you can see that my shutter speed is changing, because we allowed that in the menu system that I could change it manually. You could also see how many photos are left, the ISO. On the right-hand side, you can see that I’m in AF-S, which is single focus. So, in this case you can hear the beep. Press the button, shutter button halfway down, and the green box shows up, because it’s in focus. Now that means it’s locked in. But what if you want to track a subject for video or for photos, go ahead and hit this ‘I’ button again. Right now it’s on AF single. Let’s put it on AF-F, which is full time servo AF and hit the ‘I’ again and watch this.
It’s going to focus in on the time and then I’m going to pull it back like this and watch it’s going to focus in on my hand. Now this is not the greatest autofocus in the history of autofocus. It’s not like an old camcorder. Now, it’s good. It’s not the best, but it’s going to do the job if that’s what you want to do. My recommendation is not to use live view to shoot still images. I’m a big proponent of holding the camera like this and shooting through the viewfinder just like this. That is more stable than holding the camera just like this. So, now how do we hit record for video? We hit this red button and boom. It starts recording. You can see what it’s recording right now. We can zoom in on the Wheel Of Fro right there, boom.
It found the focus in this low light. Like this you can also see my levels are on auto, how much battery time is there and in the top left-hand corner you can see that I have 20 minutes of record time. So, you will get 20 minutes in the highest mode that I was set at right now to record video. To stop it, you go ahead and hit the record button again and that stops recording your video and that’s what you use live view for. In order to turn live view off once again you pull back on the LV right here and that will turn off live view. So, there you have it. That’s your free user’s guide for this Nikon D5600. I know it’s a long video. I know it’s a lot of information. But if you get everything set right at the beginning, it’s going to make shooting photos a heck of a lot easier as you progress with your camera. So, any questions that you have, you could always leave comments down below and I will do my best to answer them and don’t forget to subscribe right here on YouTube, so you can be notified when all of my videos go live. So, that is where I’m going to leave it.
Thank you very much for watching, Jared Poland froknowsphoto.com. See you. Hey, look, it’s my logo on the top left-hand corner. Go ahead and click on it, so you can subscribe to my YouTube channel and never miss another video again. Over here on the top right-hand corner, you have the mygearvault logo. Go ahead and download mygearvault, the best way to input, organize, and protect your gear and on the bottom right a video..